TIP:
Cutting and sanding fiberglass can be a miserable experience unless you take precautions. Most of the builders I talk to complain about how bad fiberglass work made them itch. The use of a good shop vacuum helps tremendously to avoid fiberglass particles embedding in your skin. I used a shop vacuum every time I sanded or cut fiberglass and avoided almost all symptoms of fiberglass exposure. However, using a vacuum doesn't eliminate all the airborne dust. It's wise to use a good face mask to save your nasal passages and lungs. I started out not using a mask and quickly learned that's a mistake. You can see the white dust on the shop vac.

I had to figure out how to hold the shop vac hose when I worked by myself. I don't have pictures but I know some of the arraignments must have looked bizarre.

The seats are molded fiberglass and are attached to the frame with six bolts.

Here Chip is mounting nut plates on the molded seats. The nut plates will secure the screws that hold body panels in place.

The aluminum plates on the seat backs are access panels to the engine compartment. We had to cut holes in the seat backs and then cut the aluminum plates to fit. They are secured with Dzzus Fasteners for quick removal.

This is the instrument pod inverted. It attaches to the seats and rests on two pads on the front of the frame.

Here you can see the white heated air control valve that we had to build from scratch. Also notice the air flow slots we had to cut. The nut plates that attach the lower body panel ( the tub ) have been riveted in pace also. There will be another row of holes drilled parallel to the nut plates to accommodate the wind screen securing screws. I didn't take a picture of that detail.

BIG TIP:
I got this from some of the other builders. During the construction of the chopper, the bottom tub must be removed numerous times. Usually that is accomplished by detaching the front landing gear so the tub can slip off (pain in the @##). So, many of the builders modify the tub by splitting it between the front landing gear. It makes it easier to access the front part of the ship. It's a bit of an undertaking to split the tub, but I'm glad I did. You can see the results here.

You can see the body panels attached to the seat/ instrument panel and not the frame. The seat molding is secured to the frame by six bolts.

Chip actually came up with the method we used to spit the tub and how to fit it back together. Here you can see in more detail how the tub was split. I got so ingrosed in the process I forgot to take pictures. The process went something like this:
While the tub was still in one piece, we put carpet tape across the tub where we wanted the lip you see in the photo. The tape has a Teflon like backing that can be removed to make it double stick. In this application we left the backing on and used it as a non stick surface for the fiberglass. We then laid down two layers of fiberglass. Then we stuck nut plates every 2.5" in the fiberglass. Then came a third layer of fiberglass to encapsulate the nut plates. When the fiberglass was set, We drilled through the nut plates to mark where screws would later go to fasten the halves back together. Then I used a home made depth gage to on my Dremmil to cut the tub just deep enough to sever the original skin but not cut into the fiberglass flange; like a doctor removing a cast. We had previously marked the outside of the tub where the non stick tape was located so we knew where to cut. I was surprised at how good it turned out.